AND HERE: we are now, high in the mountains of central China, in the never-before-seen episode 15 of Ping Pong Ka-Pow.
Tiger Leaping Gorge had given us a taste of the change from southeast Asian jungle to the icy Chinese mountainscapes that were to become our home from here on in, but in Shangri-La we got hit by the downside – dizziness, nausea, breathlessness, and a gripping cold that penetrates the bone and causes deep physical pain, a place where
Tibetan prayer flags were strung from hillsides and temples littered the countryside; where yaks replaced the cows in the paddocks and feral pigs replaced the feral dogs on the street. Crested by a massive monastery filled with dancing monks, people swinging prayer wheels, and lurid hypercolour murals of the gods and spirits, Shangri-La marked a massive difference from the China we’d seen so far. And we had it all to ourselves; even the beautifully-preserved old town was a ghost town with the freezing weather. Unfortunately, we weren’t really in the mood to notice it: we were cold, we were tired, we were nauseous and breathless from the altitude. Basically: we were lame. So we stayed indoors, chewing on Tibetan bread (‘baba’) and tea eggs and rice porridge.
The music in this clip is Devendra Banhart’s freak-folk anthem, “Chinese Children”, from his epic 2005 release Cripple Crow, which I highly recommend you lay your hands on, after you’ve laid said hands on his earlier Rejoicing in the Hands, Oh Me Oh My, and Nino Rojo.
L.
