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travel Archive

  • 20110411_IMG_4062

    Planet Kapow 33 : La Fortuna to Panama City

    A TAXI: to the border, an eventless crossing, and here we are. Costa Rica! Now a series of buses – to Liberia, to Cañas, to Tilarán, where there are no more buses and a taxi driver hauls us the rest of the way to La...

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  • ep32

    Planet Kapow 32 : Masaya to San Juan del Sur

    TENSIONS RISE: and drop away constantly within the group; we’re only four, after all, and we’ve been traveling a long time together – seven months, now, for Adam and I, five for the girls. And while traveling alongside three of your best friends can be...

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  • ep31

    Planet Kapow 31 : Mombacho Volcano to Big Corn Island

    MANAGUA IS: full of ugly steel sculptures draped in coloured fairy lights. We drive around in the dark, attempting unsuccessfully to procure tickets for the odyssey that awaits us. Nicaragua’s capital is an unpleasant city in a region infamous for unpleasant cities; driving around in...

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  • 20110307_175107

    Planet Kapow 29 : Utila to the Bottom of the Sea

    PEOPLE HAD: been spouting excited stories about Utila as far back as Zacatecas, Mexico, and we had come to imagine a lethargic island of sandy streets and wild, all-night parties. But first impressions aren’t great; from the moment we set foot ashore we are pushed...

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  • ep28

    Planet Kapow 28 : Copan Ruinas to La Ceiba

    BACK IN: San Salvador, we find an ancient station wagon posing as a taxi; our driver is short and rotund, bald but for a horrible slicked-down combover. He squints and has a gold tooth that he sucks on between sentences. Winking, he reaches in the...

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  • ep24

    Planet Kapow 24 : Caye Caulker to Tikal

    WE PASSED: a few lifeless days in Mexico in what we called “rest and reCubaration”, racing through the markets of Chetumal to stock up on all the bits and pieces lost or worn into the ground along the way. When we began to feel the...

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  • ep22

    Planet Kapow 22 : Havana to Trinidad

      CUBA IS: different. Different, I think, from most any country in the world. Certainly different from anywhere I’ve ever been. And with more than two months of distance from the country, that’s still all I can say about it. Not good, not bad, not...

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  • ep21

    Planet Kapow 21 : Tulum to Cancun

        IT WAS: late when we reached Tulum after a long day of buses, and after tossing our belongings into our tiny bungalow, we sat down at the bar, curled our toes in the sand, and ordered a shot of mezcal. It was two...

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  • ep20

    Planet Kapow 20 : Palenque to Merida

      IT WAS: on the bus from San Cristobal de Las Casas to Palenque that I finally had my breakdown.   Almost everybody has a traveler tantrum, given enough time – alone among us, I have not seen one from Danielle, but I’m sure it’s...

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  • ep19

    Planet Kapow 19 : Taxco to San Cristobal de las Casas

    HUNGOVER AND: irritated, I sat with the others waiting endlessly for a bus that apparently had no intention of coming. It was a hot day in a dusty little shithole junction town with tuk-tuks screaming past, aggravating my headache and my sullen whining. We were...

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